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Get The Most Money Selling Your House

February 4, 2010 by 7 Comments

Get The Most Money Selling Your House

By Tawra Kellam

A clean neat house can add an additional $5,000- $10,000 to your asking price. Using this method we sold our house in 10 days.

As soon as you find out that you are moving, start getting rid of things you don’t need or use any more. It is ridiculous to move things that are never used to another house. They will merely clutter your space as they did before. Get rid of all of it!!!

To begin de-cluttering, start with one room or one cabinet at a time. Packing while carrying out your usual routine may make it easier. For example, pack the bathroom cabinet while the kids are in the tub or de-clutter a kitchen drawer while you are waiting for something to boil. You will be amazed how fast this method goes.

Get rid of anything that is broken, old or that you just don’t like. Hold a garage sale, it not only eliminates things but can also provide a little cash. The goal is to eliminate clutter so don’t price your items to high! A good rule of thumb is 10%-25% of retail.

As you go from room to room de-cluttering, organize using three boxes: one for garage sale items, one for things to give away and one for trash. When you take a break from organizing, keep the three boxes set up in the utility room or garage so that when you find something laying around you can toss it in the appropriate box.

Keep an extra large trash can set up in the house. You won’t have to empty the trash as often.

 

CLEANING YOUR HOME TO SELL

Clutter is visually disturbing to potential buyers. One of the biggest reasons houses don’t sell is they are cluttered and/or dirty.

When you are trying to sell your house and you will be showing it to potential buyers, pack up things that you only use occasionally. Stack all your packed boxes in the garage or the corner of a room. This NOT the time to make your house comfortable for you, but attractive to sell.

After you have de-cluttered, it is time to DEEP CLEAN.

KITCHEN – Clean the sink, stove and refrigerator. Don’t forget to clean the fronts of your cabinets. Wipe fingerprints off of everything, including walls and light switch plates. Remove as much as you can from the counter tops. Make sure that the space under your kitchen sink is clean because everyone always checks the plumbing under the sink. Sweep, mop the floor and empty the trash.

BEDROOMS – Make beds, pick up clothes, clear off dressers, end tables and other furniture. Dust, vacuum and make sure closets are uncluttered, neat and clean.

BATHROOM – Put away (meaning in a box or drawer out of site) all bathroom items including makeup, shampoos, baby toys and toiletries. Clean the sink, tub and toilet. One trick I learned while cleaning houses professionally was to take a soft cloth and dry everything well, to prevent water spots. It is especially important to shine the metal fixtures. Clean under the sink, empty the trash and wipe off light switch plates. Mop the floor. As in the kitchen, the less clutter you have, the better. Keep one nice set of towels handy that you can put out when you are showing the house.

LIVING ROOM – Remove all unnecessary items that are laying around on the furniture including toys, magazines and newspapers. Remove all pictures and accessories that are not adding to the decor of the room, either pack them or garage sale them. Dust (don’t forget to dust the pictures on the walls) and vacuum.

GARAGE – Don’t overlook the garage! Make sure things are neatly placed and sweep the floor. Place all items in boxes if you can. Neatly stacked boxes give a better impression than piles of stuff.

Continue going through each room using the same basic ideas.

If your carpets are dirty be sure to either rent a carpet cleaner or have them professionally cleaned. Seeing all kinds of carpet stains from kids is a big turn off to potential buyers.

 

SHOWING YOUR HOUSE

Keep a basket in each room so that you can quickly throw things in it when you have to show your home. This is particularly useful if you have children and you usually have toys on the floor. Hide the basket with a nice blanket.

Don’t leave open trash cans sitting around.

Turn lights on in every room including the garage. This will make the house show better.

In a potpourri pot or pan, simmer some cinnamon with either or all of the following: ginger, nutmeg, or cloves. It is best to stay away from strong scented candles with berry, apple, peach or other similar smells because some people find these scents overpowering and unpleasant. Most people do however like the smell of cinnamon.

 

IF YOUR HOUSE IS VACANT

If you are leaving your home and it will be shown vacant, here are a couple of ideas to help make it show better.

Take a few small terra cotta pots and fill with 2 or 3 stems of silk geraniums. (Geraniums aren’t necessarily my favorite flower but the bright red color works great for this purpose). Place them in several different corners of the house. A couple on the kitchen counter, one on the back of the toilet, or counter in the bathroom, a corner of the living room or on the mantle of the fireplace.

Place a bouquet of real looking silk flowers and small bowl of potpourri in your entryway for people to see when they first walk in. First impressions are very important.

Don’t get carried away by making the house look like a florist shop. It takes just a couple of splashes of color here and there to really warm up an empty house.

From Dig Out Of Debt

 

photo by: the truth about

Filed Under: Featured, Managing Money, Saving Money Everyday Tagged With: debt, moving, Saving Money Everyday

How Can I Get Out From Under A Lease Agreement?

February 4, 2010 by Leave a Comment

Lou from north Carolina asks:

Hi. I am recently living on my own with my two children, 15 & 12. I was married for 23 years and totally blown away when my husband asked for a separation. It was initiated by money problems. I made a big mistake by agreeing to file bankruptcy so my credit is shot. I don’t receive any child support and basically let him have everything. I thought we were going to work it out but we didn’t.

Your web site and cookbook have helped me tremendously. I am living very frugally now.

I have one big problem. I have a leased vehicle payment of $650 a month and two more years on the lease. I’m upside down in the lease as well. I would like to trade the van and buy something else. Something that I can pay for and keep for several years. Do I have to go back to the same dealership I leased the van from to trade it in? I have been unable to get a straight answer anywhere. I know they’re making money on me. Big money. But the $650 a month payment is killing me. Unfortunately, I don’t live near public transportation. I would appreciate any suggestions you could give me.

Hi Lou,

Unfortunately, we don’t have any experience with auto leases. Everything we have heard had sent up big red flags about avoiding getting into lease contracts, but since we don’t have any experience with them, I don’t know the best way to get out from under it if you are already committed.

In a perfect world, we’d probably try to get out of the lease as soon as possible. I looked at a little information on the Internet and it appears that most leases have a provision for early termination, but that the fee associated with that can be thousands of dollars. I would check your lease contract to see what it says about early termination.

If you want to trade the vehicle, I would avoid getting into another lease. It is possible that the dealership where you leased the car may waive the early termination fee if you trade for another vehicle with them. If they say they can do it, make sure that they’re not just taking the penalty and adding it to your new loan. If they do, you are not saving anything.

If you trade it at another dealership, they will probably do it, but I’d expect that they would pay off the lease termination fee and then add it to your new loan, meaning you’d be in the same dilemma for longer.

Read your lease to see what it says about early termination. It is possible that if you called them and explained your situation, they might let you out of it. I wouldn’t count on it, but it wouldn’t hurt to ask. If it costs you $1000 to break the lease, but you can get another vehicle that will cost you $250 per month, you’d save $400 per month and the $1000 would be paid after 2 1/2 months.

If you can get out of the lease, I’d try to buy a used car from another person and not from a dealership. Dealerships charge more (even for used cars) to cover their administrative costs.

Once you know what you’re up against, I’d do the math for all of the possible scenarios (i.e. keep the car until the lease expires, break the lease,pay the fees and buy an inexpensive used car, trade the leased car for the van you wanted, etc.) and see which one will end up costing you less.

I wish we could have given you more specific information, but as I mentioned we have no experience with car leases. It seems unnecessarily complicated (probably so you’re too confused to understand what they’re having you sign).

I hope this helps!

Michael

From: Dig Out Of Debt

photo by: zayzayem

Filed Under: Budgeting, Featured Tagged With: Budgeting, Saving Money Everyday

Pay Off My Car or Put the Money in Savings?

February 3, 2010 by 2 Comments

Mike from Manitoba, Canada asks:

“I have been trying to live more simply, and would like to become debt free so that I will be more free to make changes that reflect my new goals in my life.

Last year I bought a new car. At the time I was already thinking about maybe giving up my old car and going without. Then my best friend bought a new car and I got caught up in the old “New Car Fever”. I have enough money in Savings to pay it off. The interest on the loan from the dealer is 2.9%. Should I put my savings into investments, or pay off the loan?

I really don’t want to be a slave to my job (which I am not really happy at) for five years just so I have money coming in to pay off the car. What do you think I should do? I could sell the car, but then I’d be losing 30% of my investment and that doesn’t make sense either. I would really appreciate your advice in this matter.”

Hi Mike. There are two ways to look at this. First if you have money in savings and it’s making more than 2.9% then it’s silly to pay off the car when you could be earning more money with it in savings or investments. Most savings accounts earn a minimum of 4% so you would actually be earning money by keeping the car payment and putting the money into savings instead.

But….. If you hate your job and want to quit and paying off the car would put you in a position to do that, then I would pay it off.

You’re looking at all wrong. Right now if you have the money in savings to pay it off you aren’t working to pay for the car but you are working to build up your investments. If you hate your job that much, save up enough for 3-6 months to pay for your bills and then you can look for another job.

Sounds like you are doing a wonderful job to me!

Tawra

From: Dig Out Of Debt

photo by: kenwilcox

Filed Under: Featured, Getting Out Of Debt, Managing Money Tagged With: Budgeting, debt, Saving Money Everyday

When to Buy New or Name Brand Goods

February 3, 2010 by 6 Comments

When to Buy New or Name Brand Goods

In all my years living frugally, I have found that some things are worth buying new. Even though I often recommend shopping at garage sales and thrift stores, there are times when you don’t really save anything buying an item used or cutting back on something. I have tried to figure out how to save money using cloth napkins instead of paper ones, but I just haven’t been able to justify the effort when paper napkins are so inexpensive.

If the effort to make a less expensive item useful exceeds the value of the savings, it is not worth buying something used. I have put together a list of some of the things that I buy new and some of the things I try not to buy new.

 

Things I will buy brand new or name brand (I usually try to make sure it’s on sale):

Packing tape. The Scotch brand packing tape works much better than the cheap stuff and I end up using less.

Tortillas –I buy most staple foods at Aldi, but the Aldi tortillas just don’t taste as good and they stick together.

Anti Virus software- If you use a Windows computer, don’t take a chance on this one. Check out the reviews to determine which one is best for you. No matter what you use, you will want to download the updates regularly. You usually get a year of updates free. You can usually save on new software by buying it at Amazon.com.

Haircuts- Normally, I am a huge fan of the beauty college to save money on haircuts but the other day was a flop. I took my 6 and 2 year old. We were there an hour and a half! I saved $2 and a long drive across town (about $3 gas) but it wasn’t worth the wait and chasing after a 2 year old for an hour. Most of that time was spent cutting their hair. I will just take Elly to my stylist (only $6 anyway) and keep giving David his haircut at home.

Disposable Diapers – With our 3rd child we used disposable diapers. With the other two, we used cloth at home and disposables when we went out. I tried the cheap disposable diapers but they leak every time. I found that Luv’s are cheaper than Pampers but still work. I did get some really cheap diapers free. I used those for during the day when I changed him more often, but never a night.

Major appliances- Most new appliances are so energy efficient, that unless you know for sure it’s a year or less old, buy a new one. Do your homework. Spend the $5.95 for a one month subscription to Consumer Reports Online and study it carefully. It is worth buying a specific brand if it is significantly more likely to last.

Shoes- Mike and I have foot problems and need good shoes. We can’t find used shoes that aren’t completely worn out, so we buy new shoes (but always on sale). We buy used shoes for the kids as much as possible, but with our 8 year old it’s getting harder. Most boys shoes are just worn out because boys tear them up before they outgrow them.

AAA roadside assistance- For a reasonable annual subscription, you can have someone make minor repairs or tow your car if you have car trouble. It’s worth it not to worry about breaking down and trying to get someone to help you. We’ve used this to get flat tires fixed, to have a locksmith replace the ignition switch on our pickup and to tow vehicles to the shop while we were traveling.

Kids Blow up Swimming Pools – Most used ones have holes so it’s not worth the risk.

Electronics – Unless you know how to fix them or unless you know they are working, it’s not worth the chance. If possible, do some research before buying electronics as the price does not necessarily reflect the quality.

Anything that sells new for under $10 – Don’t buy something that’s used that "needs a little work" if you only save $5. Usually "a little work" ends up being a lot of work and it’s not worth the hour or two (or longer) to fix it.

Canning- I don’t recommend canning if your purpose is to save money. By the time you buy the fruit or vegetables and the sugar and then spend hours canning, it’s not worth it unless you get most of the ingredients for free. If you do your own canning because you like to grow your own organic produce, then you have other reasons besides the financial for doing it and you can decide whether or not it is worth it for you to do it.

 

Things I will try not to pay full price for:

Except for the things I listed above, I usually try to buy as many things as possible used or at a substantial discount. I buy most of our food staples at Aldi, a small discount warehouse grocery store.

Cars – Much of the price of a new car is based on the "wow" value of having a new car. When a person buys a new car, the value of the car immediately drops to less than the amount that the buyer owes on the loan when the buyer drives it off the car lot. If you buy a used car, you will save a lot of money. If possible, save your money before you need a car and buy it with cash.

Shop around for one that has low miles compared to the other cars in your price range. If you look at a lot of cars, you can usually find a deal that will surprise you. If you don’t know anything about cars, find a friend who does and bring that friend with you. If you find a car you like, you can also ask your mechanic to look at it for you for a reasonable fee. It is well worth having it checked out of you’re not sure.

Clothes- I have noticed a difference when I buy Eddie Bauer, Van Heusen and other more expensive clothes. The colors are richer. They don’t fade as bad and they last longer than Wal-mart clothes. I still wouldn’t buy them new unless they were dirt cheap. I get them at the thrift store "like new" for less than $3 for dress shirts and .99 for T-shirts.

Most Furniture- I have young children and I don’t generally buy new furniture because I know that it will inevitably get scratched/stained/destroyed before its time. I buy most furniture at garage sales. I’m pretty selective so that I get good quality items that match my decor.

Couch – When you have kids, why buy a new one? Kids are especially hard on couches. Unless it has a print that really hides stains, just get a used one until they are older or out of the house. I spent $90 on the one we have now. I saved over $500 and can sell it for at least $50, probably more, when I’m done with it. If you have already purchased an expensive couch then a slipcover is worth the price with kids!

Toys and almost everything for kids and babies– Until they get to be a certain age, kids don’t know whether something is new or not. Even after they are 8 or so, you can get by with buying used items and re-packing them tastefully. For example, I bought a super sized package of Knex (a construction toy with lots of little pieces) and put it in a large plastic container. I bought the Knex for $10, but they would have cost more than $100 new. If you buy used and dress it up, you haven’t lost as much if they don’t play with it.

Camping Equipment – For items like tents, camp stoves and lanterns, most people don’t use them enough to justify the cost of buying them new. If we need something, we usually buy it at a garage sale from the people who bought it new and almost never used it. Like exercise equipment, there is a lot of it out there so you can always get a good deal.

Books- Books are so expensive when you buy them new off the shelf. Our library sells used books. You can also get them at used bookstores, thrift stores and garage sales. If you must have the latest title now (a diet book, self help book or something you saw on Oprah :-), there are ways to save quite a bit. Try Half.com, E-bay or Amazon.com. For young kids, you can definitely find it much less used!

These are some of my suggestions based on things that I buy. You may find that it is worth it for you to buy something new that I buy used. It’s different for everyone. The thing to remember is that for each item you buy, there is a cost and a benefit. Try to get the greatest benefit for the lowest cost.

-Tawra

 

From: Dig Out Of Debt

 

photo by: roblee

Filed Under: Featured, Managing Money, Saving Money Everyday Tagged With: Budgeting, Saving Money Everyday

Always Weigh The Cost

February 3, 2010 by 2 Comments

Always Weigh The Cost – Home Theater Heist
By Michael Kellam

To the reader: I wrote this story in 2000 to illustrate why it is important to weigh the cost of items before buying them. I know that some of the prices may not reflect today’s prices, but if you read the entire story, the thought process still applies.

Have you ever thought that some particular purchase would save you money? I often hear people talk about how they can save money by purchasing something that will save them in other ways. A good example of this is a custom home theater system. Many of my movie buff friends, awed by snazzy displays in electronics stores have convinced themselves that there is virtually no cost in this type of purchase. After all, it is difficult to find a first run movie theater that sells tickets for less than $6.50 each and many are substantially more. Surely, they reason, at say $8.00 per ticket, they would save money purchasing this system that attempts to approximate the theater experience. Is this really the case? Let’s weigh the cost!

One particular friend purchased his system in stages. First he purchased the large screen television for a cost of around $2000. Then he purchased a mid range stereo system including a DVD player for another $2000. For these prices, surely the stereo would include speakers, but says my friend, that is not the case. He spent another $1500 purchasing speakers and a sub woofer because he likes the bass. My friend was telling me how he got a great deal because he purchased several of the components at once. He asserted that he “saved” several hundred dollars on the equipment and that the entire system would pay for itself since he would no longer incur the cost of seeing theatrical releases.

Considering his assertions, my curiosity got the best of my and I began crunching numbers. I added his equipment costs and figured that his system cost $5500.00. At $8.00 per movie, that means he would have to watch 688 films on his home theater before it would pay for itself. Not bad, you might think. He might see that many films in two years if he watched one every day. Of course, this assumes he is watching films that he would have seen in the theater but chose to view them on his home theater instead or else he wouldn’t be saving money. My friend found that even with his home theater, he did not want to give up theatrical movies all together, so maybe it would take a little bit longer for the system to pay for itself.

What my friend never figured into his numbers was that he was going to have to have DVD’s to watch on this new system. At the purchase price for DVD’s, suddenly it would be cheaper for him to watch a movie in the theater. His system could never pay for itself. My friend decided that he would instead rent the DVD’s from the local video store, where DVD’s rent for about $4.00 each. If all of the DVD’s he watches are rented, he only saves $4.00 over the price of watching the film in a theater. This means that we have to do the math all over again. Now for the system to pay for itself (dividing the $5500.00 system by the $4.00 savings), my friend would have to watch 1375 movies for the system to pay for itself. He would have to watch at least one movie every day for close to four years before the system pays for itself. Now my friend is serious about movies, but lets face it, one movie every day is a lot of movies.

My friend never considered that after a couple of years, the technology would be so much better that he would want a new one. Sure his system was great, but look what they have now. Still, the system has not paid for itself so he must press on. He never considered that if he had simply paid the eight bucks to see a theater movie every day that he would be $3000 ahead at this point and not in hock for this stupid home theater. Heck he could have gone to the theater AND bought popcorn every day!

What makes it worse is that my friend bought his system at one of those electronics stores with the 1 year same as cash. How can you beat that – no interest! What he didn’t know was that if the balance isn’t paid off by the end of the year, that the company charges all of the interest back to the date of the purchase as if it was never “same as cash”. To add insult to injury, the credit company charges 29% interest on purchases. That means that in addition to the $5500.00 my friend paid, he also has to pay $1595 PER YEAR interest until it is paid off. If he only pays the minimum payment of $150 per month, it will take him 91 months (7 ½ years) to pay off the system. The total cost of the system is then $13647 including $8147 in interest. This means that including the $4.00 savings per movie, he will have to watch 3412 movies before the system pays for itself. That is a heck of a lot of movies. If my friend watched a movie every day, it would take him more than nine years for the system to pay for itself. In this case, my friend could have paid full price to watch movies every day at the theater for more than nine years. In fact, the system is not really paying for itself if my friend would not otherwise have actually paid the $8.00 every day for nine years to see that many films. It also does not take into consideration that most people see at least SOME movies in discount theaters. If my friend would have seen a film in a discount theater, he would actually be spending more for each movie he chose to view on his home theater.

What I have not mentioned here is that my friend works a job that pays him $20,000 per year. If he pays cash for the system (NOT using a credit card), he will have had to work over three months for no other reason but to pay for his home theater. If he uses a credit card, he will have had to work for more than 8 months to pay for the system. Now, I don’t know about you, but if I could take 3-8 months off of work and still live at the same standard of living, I would rather do that than go to a job and work more for someone else so I can “save” money purchasing a home theater that might not pay even for itself for nine years.

I am not saying that home theaters are bad. I am simply saying that you should carefully weigh the cost of something before you purchase it, considering all things that affect the price. I personally would not purchase such a system when I can see a film in glorious Technicolor on the big screen as it was meant to be seen (in 2.35:1 wide screen of course). If you feel that it is worth it to you to spend the money on such a system, it is your prerogative to spend it on whatever you wish to spend (keeping in mind that you must want it more than that other thing you can’t afford after you have bought it). So go enjoy the movie! And say “Hi” to the ticket taker for me!

If you need help trying to figure out how to weigh the cost of things you’re considering buying, you might want to check out Dig out Of Debt and learn more about how to keep more of your money.

 

Filed Under: Featured, Managing Money, Saving Money Everyday Tagged With: debt, Saving Money Everyday

When Saving Money, Make It Work For You

February 3, 2010 by Leave a Comment

When Saving Money, Make It Work For You

Christy M. writes: The next time (if there is one) that you can stand to do an article on cleaning, kid chores or when to spend a bit more – here are my comments, take them or leave them 🙂

My son has disabilities that include attention span and fine motor skills. We decided it was far more important to make sure he learned some skills around the house as well as feeling like a useful member of the family, than to worry about saving a few dollars. I buy the wipes in a container and use regular wet Swiffer cloths and the Clorox Ready Mop. Those are items he can manipulate himself for cleaning the bathroom and mopping the hardwood floors, and I don’t have to worry about toxic chemicals or bleach getting sloshed around. Also, we are on a septic system, and using the disposables limits the harsh liquids going into the septic tank, extending the period between pumpings. Yes, of course I realize that they ARE going into the garbage.

Again, this is what WORKS FOR US. I generally stock up on these cleaners at the warehouse store when they are running a coupon special. I tried using the wet Swiffer type wipes from the dollar store but didn’t care for the performance. Generally we wet Swiffer a couple of times a week and then my daughter or I do a "good old" sponge mop job with Spic n Span or similar, about once a week. If the floors are very grubby in between, we’ll touch up with the Ready Mop. Our bathrooms are small, so half a dozen wipes and one wet Swiffer cloth for the bathrooms does it for the week.

Just another example of how thriftiness doesn’t have to be "all or nothing."

Christy

 

Tawra: Hi Christy, Thank you for this great reminder that the goal is not always to save the most money, but rather to make the best decision for your family. For all of us, there will be times when it is worth spending a little more to make it work for you and your family.

 

photo by: aflcio2008

Filed Under: Cleaning, Featured, Organizing Ideas Tagged With: Cleaning, Saving Money Everyday

Saving On Presents

February 3, 2010 by 10 Comments

How Can I Spend Less on Presents Without Looking Cheap?

Katie from Rolla, Missouri writes:

Everyone else in our family makes a lot of money and buys expensive Christmas gifts for us. I’m getting ready to become a stay at home mom, which will stretch us even more. I’m wondering how to buy presents for the rest of the family without looking ridiculous and being embarrassed. My husband and I can have Christmas without lots of presents, but the extended family gatherings are stressing me out financially. How can we get around this and still seem generous?

 

Tawra: You can save money on gifts by shopping wisely and presenting them nicely. Here’s a perfect example: One time I found my mother in law’s favorite bath gel on clearance for $1.00 instead of the $8.00 it normally costs. I bought all they had left and then, for several holidays, I made nice gift baskets with new items from the dollar store, yard sales and the thrift store. She would never have known that the $30 value only cost me $5-$7 for each one! Of course, we put the money we would have spent toward paying off our credit cards instead of just spending it.

Listen to what they like, then keep your eye out for good deals at clearance aisles, thrift stores and yard sales. If someone collects something small, make up a nice little gift with several of those small things. Here’s a good example: My daughter collected penguins last year. We collected several over a few months and then made a nice box filled with penguins for her. She never knew and wouldn’t have cared that the cost was only a couple of dollars. It made a huge impression because it was something she liked.

Remember when shopping for gifts, it’s not so much how much you spend but how you present it. If you think about it, when you pay more for something at the store, what you’re often paying for is just the presentation.

From: Dig Out Of Debt

 

photo by: laurenmanning

Filed Under: Featured, Holidays Tagged With: Christmas, saving money, Saving Money Everyday

Paying Cash For A Car?

February 3, 2010 by 20 Comments

Paying Cash For A Car?

Elaine From Massachusetts asks:

“Given the fact that more people are traveling further for better paying jobs — How does your concept of purchasing a car cash apply? I travel a total of 100 miles a day round trip for work. Travel time is about 1 hour 15 minutes peak times and when it snows it can take over 2 hours. YES, a new job closer to home would be ideal but close to home does not have anything but small mom/pop stores and Wal-Mart / gas station/ Auto Zone/ Home Depot/ Sears…. no big companies that pay like HP, EMC, 3Com or Verizon. The current truck I am driving has 250,000 miles. It is TRYING to make it through the winter.. Help!”

 

Mike: Hi Elaine,

We try to purchase used cars in good shape for cash. Generally, we shoot for around $5000 for a car with 50K miles or less. We have not always had the cash, and in that case, we’ve bought the $5000 car using a zero percent credit card. We don’t recommend that because you still have to pay for it eventually and using credit just delays the inevitable. If you do use credit, I’d still bite the bullet and pay it off as fast as you can even if you get a no interest loan.

Regarding your question about long traveling distances, there are only two options that we can see. Either expect to pay a lot for traveling expenses or move home and work closer together. We used to live in a remote area in rural Idaho. I drove 100 miles each way to work and it was 70 miles to the nearest town where we could go shopping. There weren’t many places to work in the town of 400 where we lived and most of those paid only minimum wage. Eventually, we had to move to a city where we were closer to jobs.

If all of the workplaces are far from home and the shopping is far from home, it seems like the easiest way to reduce traveling costs is to move closer to the city where you work.

Alternatively, you could develop a web business or some other home business, but beware that web businesses take just as much work as any other business and take time to set up before they make money. The “up” side is that if you’re living in a house that has been in your family for 7 generations, you can keep your house and also reduce your traveling cost.

I may have misunderstood the question, but whether or not you have a new car does not seem relevant to your driving distance. If you want a more fuel efficient car, you can buy a gently used car with cash and be way ahead on your costs rather than buying a new car. When we did the math, we figured that buying a brand new car to save money was not a good idea. If you want a new car and you are willing to pay for it, go ahead and get one. If you don’t need to save money and you really want the car, that is a choice that you are free to make.

As far as costs, though, consider this: If you buy a new car for, say $25,000, you will pay substantially more than the $25,000 cost if you get a car loan (because interest and fees add additional cost). If the new vehicle gets gas mileage twice as good as a $5000 used one, the amount you spend on the price of buying the new car will far exceed the amount of gas money saved over the life of the car, not to mention the higher insurance and license tag costs.

If we were in your situation, I’d start looking for a good deal on a used car in good shape that I could hopefully buy with cash by the time the truck goes to truck heaven. If you look at a lot of cars and if you check them out carefully, you can get a better deal than you might think. If you don’t know anything about cars, enlist a friend who does to check it out for you. When you think you’ve found “the one”, you can pay a mechanic to check it out for you to make sure it is in good condition. This usually costs around $50.

For us, we would continue to buy used cars if our income was higher and then use the extra money to pay off any debts or invest the savings in something permanent like real estate.

Just to be clear, don’t feel like you need permission to buy a new car if you want one. If you can afford a new car and are prepared to pay for all of the costs, go ahead. Our point is that financial matters are all in a balance and in order for everything to work out, all of the money you spend has to work out to less than all of the money you bring in.

If you do decide to buy a car new, don’t make that decision based on the fact that a car salesman says you can get a loan. Make sure you do the math and feel comfortable with the cost. The salesman wants to make money and it’s not his problem if you have trouble making your payments.

I hope this helps!

      -Michael

For more easy and practical ways to save money and get out of debt, check out Dig out Of Debt and learn more about how to keep more of your money.

 

photo by: amagill

Filed Under: Featured, Managing Money, Saving Money Everyday Tagged With: Budgeting, debt, Saving Money Everyday

When Should You Buy A Newer Car?

February 3, 2010 by 6 Comments

Michael from Wilmington, NC asks: When should you get rid of an old car that is paid for and buy a newer one that would hopefully have less maintenance cost. I am assuming the new car would be paid for outright without credit expenses.

 

Michael Answers: That is a good question. We recommend buying cars outright with no credit debt and then driving them until they die completely or until it is no longer practical to keep them. When we buy cars, we like to pay cash and we generally pay $2000 to $6000 for the newest low mileage used car when can find. Our last two "new" cars were a 1991 Buick Skylark we bought in 1998 with 50,000 miles for $2500 and a 2000 Ford Taurus station wagon with 59,000 miles we bought in 2004 for $6000. We paid more for the Taurus because it was only four years old, it was in really good shape and we thought it was worth paying a little more for the car Tawra and the kids would be using regularly. (We also hoped it would last a little longer than some of our previous buys).

When we buy a used car, we usually choose well enough that it needs very few repairs in the first year or two. Generally, we expect to pay regular maintenance costs (new tires, oil changes, brake pads, etc.) no matter what car we drive, so we usually don’t count those expenses as "repairs". We will continue to drive the car, making regular repairs until we begin to get the sense that its life span is coming to an end. When we do have to make repairs on a car, we consider it reasonable to spend several hundred dollars a couple times a year to keep it going. This might include replacing a water pump, doing major brake work or general engine work.

Usually, a catastrophic repair (like a new transmission or a new engine) is the death nail for one of our cars since our purchase price for a replacement is usually low. Occasionally, we will fix a catastrophic repair if the car rarely needs work and if we have not had the car very long. Here’s an example where we did that:

Once we received a used car as a gift from family after I crashed a car on an icy road. Two weeks later, the transmission failed. Since the car was new to us, didn’t cost us anything and seemed to be OK otherwise, we went ahead and spent $2000 to fix the transmission.

Most of the time, a car needs only occasional repairs, but over time, the frequency of repairs increases. When it seems that the number of repairs is on the rise, we try to figure out whether or not we think it is a trend. If so, we think of the car as "on its way out" and stop making unnecessary repairs. If we have decided that a car is "on its way out" and it requires a single repair over $500, we will usually consider it dead and replace it. If the car that is a short timer needs several lesser repairs over several months that begin to add up to a lot of money, we will usually get rid of it and get something else.

We had a 1991 Buick Skylark that was a good car for a long time. We originally bought it for $2500 in 1998 when it had 50,000 miles on it. Until 2004, it needed only occasional repairs, so we didn’t feel too bad if we had to put $300 into it from time to time. In 2004, the repairs seemed to come more frequently and we began to think that the car would need to be replaced soon.

We still continued to do regular maintenance, but avoided spending a lot of money on repairs that were not critical. We got a crack in the windshield that was a little bit annoying, but since it was only around the edges and Kansas law did not require us to replace it, we decided not to repair it at the time. Again, we were pretty sure the car was on its way down hill. The heater started to occasionally smell like anti freeze which made me think the heater core was going to fail in a year or two. We started to notice that the paint was peeling from the rear fenders, but because we didn’t think the car was going to last a long time, we decided not to re-paint the car. We still made some regular repairs, but eventually, the car had a brake failure that was difficult to put a price on. We had already spend $500 in the previous 3 months for regular repairs above general maintenance and it appeared that the brake problem could cost another $300-$400. At this point, we decided that the white car had exceeded its useful life, since we would have spent $900 in just a few months if we repaired it and we would still have had a car with a cracked windshield, a dying heater core, peeling paint and other problems that we had not yet discovered.

You will want to consider where your car is in it’s useable life. If you want to keep your expenses low, always remember that a car’s basic purpose is to get you from place to place reliably. You can keep more of your money if you’re not driving the car to impress other people. We usually try to keep the cars looking presentable, but we normally go for clean "plain Jane" cars that run well. All major systems should work well. We live in Kansas, where the temperatures are often over the 100° mark in the summer, so we think that Air Conditioning is a must. When we lived in Colorado, we considered it more of an "option".

When it is clear that a car no longer fulfills it’s basic purpose: to get you from place to place reliably within a reasonable budget, it’s time to get another one.

You are wise in considering a newer "used" car when you replace an older car. Usually, you get the best buy on a car that is new enough to need few repairs, but old enough to be relatively inexpensive. You have to shop around to make sure that you find a good used car with no signs of trouble and it is wise to have a mechanic check it out of you don’t know much about cars.

We try to stick to cars with 60,000 miles or less that appear to have been well maintained and cost between $2000 and $6000.

 

For Readers considering buying "New":

Brand new cars cost more than they are actually worth, so it’s best to let someone else take the financial hit of being the first buyer of a car. Some people buy brand new cars expecting to "save" on maintenance costs and repairs, but all cars require occasional maintenance and repairs and parts for new cars tend to be more expensive.

The "white car" cost us $2500. We drove it for 8 years, so it cost us $312.50 per year. We averaged $300 per year for repairs, so our total cost for the car was $612.50 per year. Thats PER YEAR, NOT PER MONTH. A similar car purchased new costs $446 per month. That is $5352 per year or $26,760 after five years of payments. Buying used, we saved $4852 per year or $24,260 for the entire cost of the car.

If you still think the new car is worth it, don’t forget that the new car will cost you more in insurance and registration fees and after two years, you will probably be putting money into repairs on top of your monthly payment. It’s something to think about.

 

photo by: twodolla

Filed Under: Featured, Managing Money, Saving Money Everyday Tagged With: debt, Saving Money Everyday

13 Tips To Save Money On Your Electric Bill

February 3, 2010 by 35 Comments

Save money using these easy tips to cut your electric bill. You will be surprised how easy it is to reduce your utility costs!

13 Tips To Save Money On Your Electric Bill

Lisa writes: Hello ladies,

I was wondering if you have any wise tips on reducing our utility bills? Our utility company just raised their rates, and we received a $300.+ electric bill this month.

Tawra: Hi Lisa! Here are few tips that we use:

Keep your thermostat at 78-82 in the summer and 60-68 in the winter. For most people, this is the other way around. If you currently keep it much lower than this, try changing it over a couple of months so you can get used to it.

Move down to the coolest part or up to the warmest part of the house. In the summer move all your beds and/or the TV down to the basement. In the winter your upstairs room may be the warmest so move up there. Don’t move everything twice a year.

We used to have a bi-level house and immediately after moving in, we realized that even though a bi-level has bedrooms on both floors, it works better for us to live during the day all on one floor. We moved all of the sleeping arrangements downstairs, even though it meant that we used the downstairs family room for our bedroom.

In the summer, open windows in the opposite corners of the house to “draw” the air through first thing in the morning. Then close them later before the heat of the day hits.

Use fans instead of central air or even air conditioners. We don’t turn on the air conditioner unless it is more than 78° F (26° C)

  • Put fans in your windows backwards to draw hot air out. If you want the cooler outside air to blow across you in one room, place the fan in a window directly across the house to suck air out. Then, the cooler air will be pulled into the window where you are.
  • Use attic fans to draw hot air out too. Don’t underestimate how much an attic fan can help. Consider that a 125° attic next to a 78° house can raise the temperature, even with good attic insulation. An attic fan can literally drop your home’s temperature by several degrees.

Do things during the coolest part of the day that require you to be up and moving around (dusting, vacuuming, cleaning the bathroom).

Do the things that are less physical and more stationary in front of a fan during the hotter part of the day (washing dishes, folding clothes, paying bills).

Plan ahead for baking. In the summer when it’s hot, only bake on the cooler days, ideally when you don’t need the air conditioner and can keep the windows open. If you can plan ahead for the week, bake what you can in advance so that if a really hot day comes, you can avoid using the oven that day.

Keep an eye on your appliance operating costs.

  • Sometimes, you will save money on energy use by replacing an inefficient appliance. Most of the time, it will take a while for the cost of replacing the appliance to make the energy savings worth it, so don’t replace something expensive just to save on your utilities unless you do the math. If you find that you need to replace an appliance soon, replace it now if you can save on energy costs since you will have to incur that cost anyway.
    Our air conditioner costs us about $150 per month to cool our 1600 square foot house in the summer which is twice that of a friend with a similar sized house in town, but because of the high cost to replace one and the relatively few number of months we use it each year, we will probably wait another couple years to replace it.
  • Test your power usage if you can. There is a company that makes a device that is like a plug adapter that you can use to test the power usage on any appliance that plugs into a wall. Test any appliances you can. I thought that our refrigerator was using a lot of power and then I discovered it was actually the lights.
  • Don’t use appliances that you can avoid using. I like line dried clothes because of the fresh smell, so I try not to use the dryer much. This helps keep the cost down and also saves money because the dryer reduces the life span of clothes. For some appliances, reducing your use won’t save much. Unless you own a malt shop, go ahead and use the blender as much as you usually do. 😉

Consider using LED light bulbs if you use a lot of lights.

At one point, we replaced most of the incandescent light bulbs in our house with fluorescent all at once and our electric bill went down $40 right away. Where we lived, our electric bill went from $100-$110 per month without the air conditioner down to $60-$70.

We keep a lot of our lights on much of the day, so it was worth it for us to change them all at once.

More recently, we have transitioned most of our light bulbs to LED lights. LED Bulbs use a lot less energy than either incandescent or fluorescent light bulbs. An incandescent light bulb that uses 60 watts of power can be replaced with an LED light bulb that uses only 9 watts and is the same brightness.

That means if you change from incandescent bulbs to LED bulbs, the cost of using the lights will drop 85%.

Tawra

For more easy and practical ways to save money and get out of debt, check out our Dig out Of Debt eBook and learn more about how to keep more of your money.

Filed Under: Featured, Managing Money, Saving Money Everyday Tagged With: saving money, Saving Money Everyday

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